Care
We work in three materials: stainless steel, solid wood and leather. Each ages differently, and each needs a little attention to age well. Our training rugs are woven polypropylene, and are covered separately below.
Nothing here is complicated. Most of it takes a few minutes, once or twice a year.
In general
Use and store indoors. Our pieces are made for interiors. Wet weather, direct sunlight and prolonged moisture will damage all three materials.
Handle with control. Avoid hitting weights together, dropping them on the floor, dragging pieces across the ground, or slamming and throwing medicine balls. Our equipment is solid, but the materials we chose look their best when they are handled with respect.
Stand pieces on a soft surface. A mat or a rug protects both the floor and the piece.
Avoid harsh chemicals and abrasive cleaners on any of the three materials.
Stainless steel
Wipe with a dry microfibre cloth to remove fingerprints and marks. For most purposes this is all that is needed. A lint-free cotton cloth also works, though microfibre lifts marks better and leaves nothing behind.
For marks that will not lift, apply a small amount of stainless steel cream to the cloth — a little, and only where it is needed. Always work in the direction of the grain, or you will leave visible scratches across it. Avoid sprays; they are hard to control and can reach the leather or wood.
Never use scrub brushes, steel wool, paper towel, bleach or chlorine-based cleaners.
If your pieces are black or bronze PVD-coated, wipe with a dry microfibre cloth only. Do not use stainless steel cream or polish on a PVD surface — the coating is hard but thin, and abrasives will dull it.
In humid or coastal environments, check periodically for rust spots. If any appear, address them promptly with a stainless steel cleaner.
Solid wood
Our wood is finished with a hard oil wax. The oil penetrates the timber rather than sitting on top of it, so it wears rather than chips — and it can be repaired in place, without refinishing the whole piece.
Dust regularly with a soft, lint-free cloth. For a deeper clean, use a barely damp cloth with mild soap and dry the surface afterwards.
An oiled finish is less water-resistant than a lacquered one, so wipe spills immediately rather than letting them stand. Keep wood out of direct sunlight and away from sharp temperature changes, which can fade the surface or, over time, cause cracking.
Re-oil when the wood begins to look dry or pale — typically every 6–12 months in regular use. Clean the surface, apply a thin coat of hard wax oil with a lint-free cloth, let it absorb, and wipe off the excess. Scratches and dry patches can be treated the same way, locally, without touching the rest of the piece.
Leather
Condition every 6-12 months with a leather conditioner, ideally beeswax-based. This keeps the leather supple and prevents it drying or cracking, and it is the single most useful thing you can do for a leather piece.
Dust with a soft, dry cloth. For a deeper clean, use a damp cloth with a mild soap made for leather. Avoid excess water.
Blot spills immediately and let the leather air dry.
Keep leather away from radiators, windows and direct sun. Avoid storing pieces resting on sharp edges, which leaves dents.
Test any new cleaning or conditioning product on a small, hidden area first.
For deep cleaning or delicate repair, a local leather craftsman — a shoe repairer or bag restorer — can often help. So can we.
Training rugs
The PROM training rug is woven polypropylene with integrated padding and a leather edge trim. Polypropylene does not absorb water and holds its colour, so the rug takes more cleaning than anything else we make.
Vacuum regularly.
Marks can be scrubbed. Use a brush and a mild soap solution, then rinse and blot the area. The weave tolerates this well — it is the leather trim that sets the limit, so keep water off the edge where you can, and condition the trim afterwards if it gets wet.
Dry flat and completely. The padding holds moisture, so give it time rather than rolling or storing it damp.
Avoid solvents and bleach. The weave would survive them; the leather trim would not.
Other components
Some pieces include PU, felt or foam — upholstered pads, protective facings and padding.
Wipe these with a damp cloth and mild soap. Avoid solvents, and do not soak them.
If you're not sure
Send us photographs and a description at info@fysik.com and we will tell you what we would do.
If a piece needs more than care, see Returns & Repairs — we can usually repair, refinish or re-leather our own work at any age.
Care is part of keeping your warranty valid. Last updated August 2026.